Gladiator NXT Setup...Stick too hard to push?

[Ancient]

I just upgraded from a Thrustmaster TCS Stick and I found the GNX to be so hard to push. I already exchanged the default springs to the #10 version, doesnt make so much difference. Even without the springs it is hard to push. Do I need to oil it somehwere or is there something else to adjust? TNX for advice!

Or do I just need to adopt to the hard movement...in this case I need to fix it somewhere, it is impossible too move the stick without the base? It doesnt feel "right".

[fallout9]

It's the heavy grease on the moving parts. Using it for a while would make it more easier to push around. If it's still too heavy for your taste you could replace the grease with something on your like.

[Ancient]

Yes, I found the video in another thread meanwhile. When you compare mine with the behaviour of the stick in the first seconds in the video...mine behaved FAR stickier or harder, you couldnt push it with two fingers at all...it took 4x the time to move back to the middle.

Really not unusable. I dont want the sluggish behaviour of the TCS16k back of course. I removed the original grease like in the video, meanwhile twice on the right and one time on the left-hand stick. The right one if perfect now (a little bit harder than at the end of the video), the left one better or "OK", I missed the grease on the parts where the springs are attached, not shown in the video.

The original grease felt like glue, really. It was really hard to get the parts of each other. I used a common multi-purpose silicon grease, dont now which consequences. Far more happier now

Is there a video how to change the grease on the z-axis? It is as sticky there as on the other axis.

[Valere73]

Hello, I would like to know if you try the gladiator without springs or with #10 springs for helicopter simulation.
I 'm interested for helicopter cyclic.
Thanks for your return

[TrueWeevie]

Yes, I found the video in another thread meanwhile. When you compare mine with the behaviour of the stick in the first seconds in the video...mine behaved FAR stickier or harder, you couldnt push it with two fingers at all...it took 4x the time to move back to the middle.

Really not unusable. I dont want the sluggish behaviour of the TCS16k back of course. I removed the original grease like in the video, meanwhile twice on the right and one time on the left-hand stick. The right one if perfect now (a little bit harder than at the end of the video), the left one better or "OK", I missed the grease on the parts where the springs are attached, not shown in the video.

The original grease felt like glue, really. It was really hard to get the parts of each other. I used a common multi-purpose silicon grease, dont now which consequences. Far more happier now

Is there a video how to change the grease on the z-axis? It is as sticky there as on the other axis.

The original grease is a viscous damping grease. That's intended.

If you think about a quality camera lens with a manual zoom (so you turn the barrel of the lens to zoom) that smooth resistance to movement is what damping achieves. The idea is that you can precisely move the damped item to a specific point and you don't have to worry about overshooting your goal and then the inevitable overcorrection and the consequent oscillations about your goal.

For most flight peripheral inputs (even in sim-cade games like SC or Elite) you really are better off getting the hang of providing smooth, precise, considered inputs rather than whacking your stick around like a safari park chimpanzee's dick!

The silicon grease you've replaced it with (as long as it's plastic and electronics safe) will be fine but you'll lose that damping effect completely. If you see the light and decide you do want some damping effect (and you really do) then I'd recommend removing the silicon grease and re-greasing with one of Nye Lubricant's damping greases. Nyogel 767A is the standard recommendation but you can go for a lighter damping effect if you use Nyogel 774VH (despite it's description it is a lighter grease than 767A) or Nyogel 774H.

The key with the Nye Lubricants damping greases is to use a little to start off with and then add more until you find the level of damping you're happy with. Don't slap it on like a Drag artist putting their make-up on.

The use of a damped flight peripheral takes some time to get used to but it's worth it for the better precision and control.

[TrueWeevie]

Hello, I would like to know if you try the gladiator without springs or with #10 springs for helicopter simulation.
I 'm interested for helicopter cyclic.
Thanks for your return

You can remove the springs and as you probably know, there's a setting the 'Special' tab for most helicopter modules in DCS for this kind of setup. However, the stick will probably (even with the heavy damping grease VKB applies) not stay in the place you put it (it may 'slump').

There is this mod: https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/comments ... nt_clutch/ that might be of interest. This one is intended to be used on one axis I think, so I don't know if you'd need to change it to allow you to fit 2 clutches, one for each axis, on to the NXT gimbal but it's a place to start I guess.

However, for a helicopter cyclic, it's better if you can afford it, to have an extended stick for the better precision, plus clutches to keep the stick where you put it. In itself, the Gladiator NXT is a very precise stick but the lack of an extension and the fact that you can't/shouldn't fit an extension to it and the fact that you'd have to mod it to add clutches makes it less desirable for use as a cyclic.

If you've already got a Gladiator NXT then I guess you can see how you get on.

If you haven't yet bought, I'd recommend considering the VKB Gunfighter base + the 200mm extension + the grip of your choice. The Gunfighter has axes clutches built in; if you remove the springs and tighten the clutches the stick will stay where it's put.

I have this setup but without removing the springs (I fly fixed wing and space-sims with it and so I don't want to be mucking around with it when I switch between space-sim and fixed-wing and rotary) and flying helicopters in DCS is brilliant.

[Valere73]

Thanks for this informations.
it's seems too complicated or too expensive !!

[TrueWeevie]

Well, the NXT isn't really designed specifically for use as a cyclic. You can do it and it will be better than the other joysticks at that price point (and a little bit more than that price point too) simply because it's a better joystick than the alternatives but it's not meant as a specifically designed cyclic solution.

The next step up would be to go for the Gunfighter base and then 'half' a step up from that would be to buy the VKB 200mm curved extension in addition.

Then 'above' that you're getting into the actual designed as a cyclic' market but eh, diminishing returns and all that.

You'll be fine with the NXT but I'd recommend just leaving the springs in, accept that what you can afford is a joystick not a specifically designed cyclic and configuring the specific DCS module's 'Special' tab accordingly. You don't have to have 'stay where I put you' cyclic behaviour in DCS rotary wing flying to have a great experience.