What spring to use for helicopter cyclic with 200 mm extension?

[Fri13]

I have a small challenge about what spring to use and should I lubricate dry clutch or not.

I use a MCG Pro with 200 mm extension for helicopter cyclic.
And anyone who knows, the cyclic purpose is to be completely loose. Why one has the magnetic brake trimmer that will lock the cyclic in the position when trim button is released/not pressed.
But when the trim button is pressed, the cyclic moves completely freely around.

With the MCG Pro and GF.II base, there is good compromising solution for this, and it is the dry clutch mechanism. So remove the springs and tighten clutches enough when the stick can't anymore fall by its own weight.
It works great, there is no need to tighten the clutch springs/screws much to get it effective, but there is the small downside that you can feel the tiny friction for each axis when you start moving. It feels when you need to make very small adjustments (ones that you don't even think about).

So I came to idea to add #10 springs to get the clutch force even smaller. But I don't want joystick to have any centering either, so it would need to be strong enough to fight against the centering force.
And to remove the friction, I was told that lubricating the dry clutch with 767a (that I have in shelf and used on all other devices, as well on the gimbal for GF.II to avoid wearing the coating) that would allow to then tighten the dry clutch to get it so it wouldn't move by itself, but would not have any friction when moving.

But I am hesitant (read lazy) to start experimenting that what springs should I add, and does the dampening lubricant even help as I don't want to assemble and dissemble the base necessary amounts to avoid any mistake to brake things etc. And if something doesn't work right, test it again and again.

Has anyone done the same thing, and found a good combination, or should I just keep using dry clutch as dry without springs?

[Fri13]

Didn't require much testing to find out the smallest #10 springs are too strong for the cyclic operation. They do assist nicely in the center with some dry clutch tightening from completely loose, but the springs will pull hard from the >80-90% travel ranges. And it would require tightening even more the clutches to fight against that, and it will make the stick two axis obvious design.

So I decided to make own custom springs, purchased a common set for 9,90€ and chose fairly strong ones (about 1/2 of the #10) and cut them to size, one for each axis.
Then little tightening the clutch until stick doesn't slip at the edges.
Need to test by adding another set, as then it is likely just 2/3 or 3/5 force of the #1 and should be better.

But overall result is that weakest #10 springs are too much for hands-off experience.
I was about to test the spring force but the scale electronics went whacko... So got only one initial reading that one of the springs gave 1.5-2.5 kg force depending the drawing distance. But couldn't get to measure that either because malfunction.

[jrodshibuya]

What worked best for you in the end? I couldn't quite tell if you found a good solution from your posts above.