robomiller wrote:Unfortunately there was no Hold option for the binding.
Yeah, I checked finally today. No 'hold' for those two. I might make a suggestion on Frontier's forums regarding it.
robomiller wrote:...How do you have one button with a long press and a quick press? Also how does landing override in ED work? (told ya I was a Noob.)
For long press and short press, use the VKB Config software first to save a new configuration to the stick with the Tempo function for the buttons you want, then you can bind the longer press in Elite the same way you bind the shorter press. I posted on it a long while back, will try to link... (LATER) OK here it is, it was on Reddit/r/hotas. Speaking of which, might want to move just Elite conversations specifically either there or /r/EliteDangerous, instead of cluttering VKB forums with something TOO single-app-specific. But this is definitely pertinent as (very basic!) VKB programming. The software and firmware have rolled since I posted this but I believe the basics are still accurate:
https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/comments ... ample_two/Regarding landing overrides, as long as your gear is DOWN the alternate landing controls work, when the gear is UP, those bindings are disabled so whatever else is bound is done instead. One of the difficult things with Elite -- and a reason you'll probably play around with bindings a while before settling on your favorite -- is figuring out which commands override which mode, so where you can and can't use the same button for different things. (For example, if you assign SRV jump-jet 'up' to the same control as turret movement in "pitch" ...your SRV will hop while the turret raises.
Other controls like the UI panel controls only work when you are "focused" on a panel so you can use a button for say moving left or right in UI selection that also does something else when not in UI mode...but I find that confusing and would rather isolate a hat for cursor control, so to speak.
robomiller wrote:On a side note does your Y axis go back to the center? mine seems to like to hang around 29663-32767. I think 32767 seems to be exact center. My stick is still in the out of box settings with cams and springs. I haven't the stones quite yet to mess with those. So I don't know if that is normal or not.
If your Y doesn't center precisely check the dry clutches, make sure they're loosened all the way first, and recalibrate. Also level mounting matters, e.g. if your chosen installation for the mounting plate swivels or hinges at all (like mine does) that will influence its ability to return to center with the weaker springs. Don't be bashful about carefully disassembling the base - removing the rubber dust gasket, and pulling the gimbal out of the base (there is a little pin connector you need to remove on the bottom after removing the bottom plate, so don't forget to do that before trying to lift the mechanism 'out' of the rounded housing). Taking a look at the mechanism gives you a good feel for how its moving and how the dry clutches work so you can adjust to your preferences. I use "no" clutch at all - loosened them all the way, then tightened only enough that I could see the spring was "held" but not really compressed, so it wasn't rattling loose on the screw shaft. When I deflect the stick and then let go, it will oscillate a little of course with no dampening at all and weakest springs, but the digital value on return to center does tend to be within 25-50 at worst of the ~32k midpoint, unless my mount plate is a bit further canted than I usually use it at.
IF you have any problems (and that's a very big IF - by no means am I blaming VKB for anything at all here, just expressing an opinion based on a year or more of posts I've seen and the occasional experience myself - I think it is more likely going to be on the X axis. The X sensor board plugs into the other board with a short cable which has to route kind of thru the gimbal. My experience has been that this cable can, due to whatever bend it happens to have, and being crowded by the bottom plate, occasionally start to kind of 'tug' at the top connection, some combination of X and Y motion might kind of get it on the other side of the hardware from where it was to begin with. So if you start to see the X axis behaving weird, managing that cable (make sure it's plugged in firmly, maybe eyeball it as you manipulate the stick with the bottom removed and decide if it needs a nudge to one side before replacing the plate) is the cure. I still do this occasionally (like every 3-5 months sort of thing) and keep considering building a replacement for that cable with really flexible silicone-insulated wire to retrofit in, but it's only a minor annoyance in an otherwise wonderful stick and gimbal, so compared to all my current sim-pit development efforts that's waaaay down the priority list.
(Post about it:
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=3155#p31150)