Calibration with locked twist

[JohnW]

Hi, I have L&R NXTs, all working fine. I keep the right stick's twist locked with the screw, but when calibrating I remove the screw so I can calibrate all axes. Is this actually necessary? It would be easier to leave the screw in place, and of course I don't care if that twist axis doesn't work, but would doing this interfere with the calibration in any other way?

[Ron61]

If the twist axis is not needed at all, then it can be disabled by unchecking these 2 checkboxes and writing with the Set button to the controller.

[rtrski]

Hi, I have L&R NXTs, all working fine. I keep the right stick's twist locked with the screw, but when calibrating I remove the screw so I can calibrate all axes. Is this actually necessary? It would be easier to leave the screw in place, and of course I don't care if that twist axis doesn't work, but would doing this interfere with the calibration in any other way?

Just asking for my own curiosity. Any reason to lock it specifically if not mapping or using it?

I leave my RH (MCG Ultimate) twist unmapped to anything, but also just leave it unlocked. It rarely wants to get twisted as I'm using the stick (I use fairly light springs, and also no extension, that might be a difference). On the rare occasions it does physically twist a little in use, it is kind of a reminder that I'm probably straining my wrist or have gotten unergonomic in my seating and armrest position due to excitement (a.k.a. "oh crap the ground is accelerating at me fast!").

[JohnW]

I just prefer the feel of it being solid rather than having the movement available. I'm mainly flying helis these days and any little movement in the wrong area can be felt. Definitely not a big issue at all though, I managed without doing it for some time, didn't die

[Ron61]

After all, you can make the axis of the brake lever from the twist axis - why block or disable, there are always not enough axles.