I believe this falls under warranty, so please advice how this can be addressed:
It took me a little while to realize that I have a problem with my VKB MkIII T-Rudder Pedals, but I just found out that the left ruder pedal does not fully depress, and is somehow bent, leaving a gap.
This gap prevents me from having a full left rudder deflection in DCS (I use the Ctrl+Enter overlay to see this in-game). I can literally 'stomp' on the left rudder in order to flex the metal so that it fully depresses, but this cannot be a solution.
This seems to be a manufacturing glitch. If this can be fixed on my end, please advice. If not, please send me the appropriate spare parts. Thank you.
See the photos attached that describe the problem. One shows the perfectly normal right rudder, the other the faulty left rudder.
Thanks.
MkIII T-Rudder Pedal component issue
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- Bourrinopathe
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Re: MkIII T-Rudder Pedal component issue
Looks like a slight mechanical asymmetry but it should not bother you in any way. Afaik, the pedals D-MaRS should autocalibrate that.
You can try to force the calibration with the VKB Device Config:
Then check the left rudder pedal input. It should reach zero without requiring any excessive pressure.
(with my MkII both maximal values are reached slightly before fully pulling the pedals down to their mechanical limits - a couple millimeters perhaps)
I just checked my MkII pedals and I may have a very tiny asymmetry (1 or 2 mm ?) as well but I never noticed it.
Also, you can download VKB joytester from the FTP to check if you're satisfied with the response.
Please let us know how it goes!
You can try to force the calibration with the VKB Device Config:
- don't touch the pedals, and prevent the cat from piloting your aircraft
- click "Start Calibr"
- magic happens
- click "End Calibr"
- check the response (Test tab)
- be happy
Then check the left rudder pedal input. It should reach zero without requiring any excessive pressure.
(with my MkII both maximal values are reached slightly before fully pulling the pedals down to their mechanical limits - a couple millimeters perhaps)
I just checked my MkII pedals and I may have a very tiny asymmetry (1 or 2 mm ?) as well but I never noticed it.
Also, you can download VKB joytester from the FTP to check if you're satisfied with the response.
Please let us know how it goes!
/// ВКБ Black Mamba MkIII / ВКБ T-Rudder MkII / ВКБ Gladiator / X-55 Rhino throttle / OpenTrack /// UTC +4 ///
- rrohde
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Re: MkIII T-Rudder Pedal component issue
Well, what can I say. Bourrinopathe, you're right, and the steps you provided worked like a charm.
I think I never calibrated these pedals since I got them, and now - after calibration - my left and right rudder input deflects fully in the VKB Device Config Test tab, as well as in DCS.
Just a shame that my first VKB impression is now kind of marred simply because of this manufacturing "oversight" with some parts obviously not being straight and level. It's quite noticable when you look at it, and surely more than a couple of mm.
PS: Do you also have some cracking noise when using full-left to full-right deflection a lot, and in short succession? Especially noticeable during helo flight in DCS.
PPS: The cat says 'hi'.
I think I never calibrated these pedals since I got them, and now - after calibration - my left and right rudder input deflects fully in the VKB Device Config Test tab, as well as in DCS.
Just a shame that my first VKB impression is now kind of marred simply because of this manufacturing "oversight" with some parts obviously not being straight and level. It's quite noticable when you look at it, and surely more than a couple of mm.
PS: Do you also have some cracking noise when using full-left to full-right deflection a lot, and in short succession? Especially noticeable during helo flight in DCS.
PPS: The cat says 'hi'.
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- Bourrinopathe
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Re: MkIII T-Rudder Pedal component issue
I'm glad it's fixed. It would have been a shame not to enjoy such lovely pedals.
The asymmetry you've shown seems undesirable nonetheless. I know VKB like the surgical tools with surgical precision, just like us. So if there's some kind of mechanical tinkering that have to be done, there's no doubt they'll help you with that.
The creaking sound is probably due to the spring. I had to grease the contact points and it's probably as silent as your sneaky cat since.
I posted about that @ Eagle Dynamics forums.
I greased the yellowish contact points (w/ some Teflon grease):
I'm pretty sure greasing the ball-bearing rolling side is useless but "better safe than sorry".
The asymmetry you've shown seems undesirable nonetheless. I know VKB like the surgical tools with surgical precision, just like us. So if there's some kind of mechanical tinkering that have to be done, there's no doubt they'll help you with that.
The creaking sound is probably due to the spring. I had to grease the contact points and it's probably as silent as your sneaky cat since.
I posted about that @ Eagle Dynamics forums.
I greased the yellowish contact points (w/ some Teflon grease):
I'm pretty sure greasing the ball-bearing rolling side is useless but "better safe than sorry".
/// ВКБ Black Mamba MkIII / ВКБ T-Rudder MkII / ВКБ Gladiator / X-55 Rhino throttle / OpenTrack /// UTC +4 ///
- rrohde
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Re: MkIII T-Rudder Pedal component issue
Good idea! I will give that a try.
Thanks for being so helpful. That seems to be a rare quality around here.
Thanks for being so helpful. That seems to be a rare quality around here.
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- rrohde
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Re: MkIII T-Rudder Pedal component issue
Bourrinopathe wrote:I'm glad it's fixed.
Well, it's not really fixed because some of the parts are still bent or don't line up as the other side. It's a very nice workaround (again, thank you for that), but I still think parts should be replaced. If one side is perfect, why can't the other?
Bourrinopathe wrote:The asymmetry you've shown seems undesirable nonetheless. I know VKB like the surgical tools with surgical precision, just like us. So if there's some kind of mechanical tinkering that have to be done, there's no doubt they'll help you with that.
That's good to know. If Jason doesn't respond here, I will email him about this...
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- rrohde
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Re: MkIII T-Rudder Pedal component issue
Okay, so I took the rudder pedals apart in order to grease the spots mentioned by Bourrinopathe.
When I opened it up, I noticed another issue - the cam has developed a rough spot (you can actually feel it, too), and some metal shavings were present. See photos.
As a result, there is also some damage visible on the cam (this is the soft-center cam setting). See photos.
PS: The cracking noise is not gone from me greasing the aforementioned areas; I can tell that the cracking noise comes from the actual "arms" that operate the T-Rudder pedals. I am just not sure from what spot exactly...
When I opened it up, I noticed another issue - the cam has developed a rough spot (you can actually feel it, too), and some metal shavings were present. See photos.
As a result, there is also some damage visible on the cam (this is the soft-center cam setting). See photos.
PS: The cracking noise is not gone from me greasing the aforementioned areas; I can tell that the cracking noise comes from the actual "arms" that operate the T-Rudder pedals. I am just not sure from what spot exactly...
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Re: MkIII T-Rudder Pedal component issue
DHRF wrote:I think the rough spot could be for the extra force that you need to make due to the other problem.
Still I already send you a PM.
Negatory on the extra force. As soon as I swapped over the cam to the softer center, and changed the spring tension, it started to grind that rough spot. I didn't even use extra force, unless for testing the issue I mentioned in the beginning of this thread.
Maybe the stiffer spring setting is too stiff for the soft center cam? Just wondering...
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- Bourrinopathe
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Re: MkIII T-Rudder Pedal component issue
It's a surprising issue and I'm sorry the cracking noise is still here. The "arms" ball heads should ensure silky smooth actuation (and it does not require any greasing).
Same for the cam's abrasion. I'm sure VKB has rigorously tested both sides with both tension settings. That's too many issues.
Please let us know if you find what going wrong! (and I hope it can be fixed ASAP)
Same for the cam's abrasion. I'm sure VKB has rigorously tested both sides with both tension settings. That's too many issues.
Please let us know if you find what going wrong! (and I hope it can be fixed ASAP)
/// ВКБ Black Mamba MkIII / ВКБ T-Rudder MkII / ВКБ Gladiator / X-55 Rhino throttle / OpenTrack /// UTC +4 ///
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Re: MkIII T-Rudder Pedal component issue
That cracking noise is hard to track down, but I can always reproduce it by simply using the pedals, even on my desk, with my hands. Eventually it starts to crack once. Even when I pick up the pedal set by the "arms", it cracks. But usually only once, until the pedals are worked again. It's almost as if the working of the pedals moves something slightly out of place, and at one point settles again, resulting in that cracking noise.
Yeah, shame about those issue... my first foray into VKB products has been a tad disappointing.
Yeah, shame about those issue... my first foray into VKB products has been a tad disappointing.
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Re: MkIII T-Rudder Pedal component issue
Hi, this is Daisy from VKB. We've seen your problem. Can you post more clear photo for us to identify problem?
Now UIV is busy with production and he will return tomorrow. We will give you answer tomorrow.
Now UIV is busy with production and he will return tomorrow. We will give you answer tomorrow.
- rrohde
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Re: MkIII T-Rudder Pedal component issue
Here are some better images that show the damage of the cam...
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